Saalbach, Austria
Austria’s largest bike region and the “Home of Lässig” — whatever that is.
I actually did some research before launching off the top of Saalbach on a mountain bike. A video on their website emphasized a variety of trails to catering to all tastes and abilities. I was heartened to see riders casually pedalling through the scenery on a calm alpine track. We never did find that spot.
“A true bike paradise. Flowing, natural trails or technically demanding descents on routes reserved for bikers.”
The ‘flowing, natural trails’ sounded perfect to me, but Matthew was set on the ‘technically demanding descents’. Based on the video, how hard could they be?
I should have known when the guys at the rental shop insisted on full-face helmets and body armor. Matthew was in heaven. It was shaping up to be a no-fall day.
After a couple warm-up runs, a few things became clear:
This place was all about serious downhill.
Our hands were going to get destroyed.
I was easily the oldest person on the mountain.
My age being unfixable, we ran into town to buy gloves. The lifts were too fast to provide much of a rest, so we made multiple stops to recover and explore the on-mountain dining options.
Our best runs of the day were on the Wurzel Trail and the Hacklberg Trail. Turns out we should have read the fine print on the Wurzel Trail (“Root junkies will experience moments of true happiness”). The first couple of kilometers were paved with masses of wet roots which are, as hikers know, basically frictionless. It was worth the grind, though, since the rooty route provided unique access to a wonderful section of flow trail untouched and free of brake bumps since no one else was dumb enough to come here in wet conditions. This was probably the very best lap of the day.
“The Hacklberg Trail is one of the most beautiful singletracks in the valley, and is known throughout Austria as the epitome of a flow trail.”
I have to admit the Hacklberg was pretty nice, although it’s possible my judgement was affected by the apfelstrudel and hefeweizen at the alpine hut on Hacklberg Alm. We commented on the strudel to a server Matthew’s age, who proudly told us he made it himself. Or possibly he said something else — my German is not what it once was.
** At least now I know ‘wurzel’ = ‘root’.
We biked until the lifts stopped, returned the muddy gear, and met Lesly in town for a large dose of vitamin I followed by a hearty Austrian dinner, well-earned.
Razor spent the day at the hotel, where he was treated like royalty.
For more information on riding in Saalbach:
This video featuring local Fabio Wibmer gives an accurate idea of trail conditions at speeds slightly faster than we experienced. I should have watched this beforehand. Note that Fabio does spend a fair amount of time in the hospital each season.
Check out the official, if not entirely trustworthy, Saalbach Hinterglemm website. Let me know if you figure out what ‘lässig’ is.
